NEIGHBORHOOD GARDEN FOR JANUARY 30, 2016
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CLAY SOIL
BY GLADYS JEURINK
We fuss about clay soil
every season of the year--water runs off, digging is hard, and roots
have trouble growing. So what are we supposed to do? For me compost (not
sand) is the answer. We must not add sand to break clay soil down as
sand and clay are the ingredients for cement. To make sand work, you
have to add at least as much sand as clay in your mixture.
Clay soil is
made of tiny particles that contain and hold nutrients for your plants
much better than sandy soil that drains so fast. The compost holds water
and nutrients as well as air spaces for roots to go through. In small
spots I dig a trench and fill it with compost or in many cases I just
put in frosted and/or dead plants, cover, and then add water. By spring
it has settled down and some decay has occurred which will continue as
the roots go down. I do add a little nitrogen (lawn) fertilizer on top
to speed the process. The next time I dig in that spot the soil is much
better, looser, and easier to work with. This is called “trench
composting” and it works for me. Some people do not like bulbs that have
to be dug in the fall but after a few years of adding compost to the
empty hole, the digging gets much easier.
A good soil is
50% soil particles and organic matter, 25% air pockets, and 25% water
pores. The parent material in soil was originally rock. Climate then
determines how it breaks down. Rain and snow help the process but are
responsible for working it deeper in areas. Alternate freezing and
thawing breaks the rocks down and then the tiny soil organisms continue
the process. Animals and plants release material by decay after they die
or in manure while they are living.
To improve your
soil, add compost. It will (1) improve the ability to absorb rainfall,
(2) add food for your “creatures” such as worms, bacteria, and fungous,
(3) keeps nutrients in place and aerates you soil, and (4) reduces the
need for so much fertilizer.
In town there
can be a great division of soil types from the digging of basements,
moving rocks, and then moving it back mixed differently. Do you have
sand? Silt? Or clay? Think of the surface space occupied by each
granule. Clay can provide thousands more surface area to hold on to
fertilizer, water and nutrients than the larger sand particles. Loam is
a balanced mixture of sand, clay, and organic material, making it ideal
for our gardens.
You can check
the drainage in your yard or garden by digging a hole one foot square by
one foot deep. Then fill it with water. Let this water drain and then
refill. Time this to see how long it takes to disappear. If you have
well drained soil the water will run out at the rate of about 1 inch per
hour. If it runs out too
slow or too fast, add organic matter such as compost.
One of our best
friends here is the “earthworm” who digs tunnels that aid in drainage.
So encourage your worms. And worm manure is a very good fertilizer, but
it is expensive to buy. You can count your worms and see if you need to
do more for your worms by digging up the soil one foot square by six
inches deep. Examine the soil and
count the number of worms. Good soil matter should have at least 10
worms. If it does not, add compost and more organic matter to help them
multiply.
Mulching is a
slower way to add compost and has many good things to say for it. It
keeps soil from drying out as fast, absorbs moisture faster than dry
soil, and keeps the roots cooler as it breaks down into food.
The more you
can do with your soil in the fall the better your crops will be in the
spring. Copyright 2016 |