THE
BY GLADYS JEURINK
As time goes on we hear and read more and
more about conserving water as cities grow. Factories are using water in
their processing, pollution is increasing, and it becomes more and more
important to become efficient in our use. There are a number of things
we can do such as zoning or the placing of our plants according to their
need for water. Thus, put
water lovers together so that only parts of our gardens need to be
watered. Some of the water needers are newly planted trees and shrubs as
well as new perennials.
Others are the shallow rooted ones such as
rhododendrons,
hydrangeas, many of
our vegetables,
impatiens,
and
lobelia.
This will take a little planning and the need to know as much as
possible about our plants. To make this easier, it will also probably
work best to put the water lovers closer to the water source to lessen
carrying hoses very far.
Knowing about and working with our soil
becomes important. Water
tends to run off of clay soil. Much of our soil in
Have you seen the stories on “rain
gardens” in the newspaper and magazines? These were ideas on how to make
or find a low place to catch any rain run off. These will keep
fertilizer and pesticides from entering the drains or water ways cutting
down on pollution. They also
hold the extra water in your yard to lessen the amount of watering.
If the yard has a steep slope that can be cut into a series of
terraces the water will filter down each series of steps leaving less to
run off.
I have noticed in a number of my garden
catalogs, rain barrels of various types and sizes to save the run off
from the roof. There are
even some that have several barrels attached to each other.
Back in
Our dry gardens should be protected from
wind as much as possible. It
dries out the plants, injures their stems, as well as drying up the
soil. Here good mulch from
compost, wood chips, or straw will help a great deal while concrete and
stones heat up and increase the loss of water.
Sometimes in a dry spring I make the row
opening ahead of time, fill it with water and plant after drainage is
finished. This gives the
seeds a starting chance.
Then I sometimes put a board over the row to keep the moisture in until
the seeds start to come up.
This works well with corn as I have had birds follow my row and eat the
corn while the soil is still soft.
I have also had birds, especially Robins, follow me down the line
of mulch, tossing it to one side to find “critters” that might be loose
in there.
Then at last, we start thinking about
plants. Some are more efficient about water use by having long tap roots
to reach down further. Others have many, many small roots that go in
every direction to hunt for more water while others can store water in
their roots. Two of my
houseplants, the POWDER PUFF,
also know as FAIRY DUSTER,
and BUDDA’S
BELLY (Jatropha) store
water in fat stems during wet season and drop their leaves to save water
loss during dry season. The plants in the gray garden in the parkway,
which I have mentioned in previous articles, are mostly dry surviving
plants. Many are gray in color because of the hairs on their leaves
which helps to keep them from losing water. Cacti are a good example of
those plants that do not have leaves but instead thorns with a waxy
covering to prevent the loss of water. Other drought tolerant plants
have scales, thick leaves, or needle like ones with less surface to lose
water.
Among the perennials I have found to be
less water dependent in
Annuals have to complete their life cycle
in one summer so come up, bloom quickly to produce seed, and many will
die back unless deadheaded.
Some have small leaves to preserve water, others have less pores on top.
Among my dry annuals are COREOPSIS, COSMOS, Copyright 2014
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