************************************************************* JULY GARDENING BY For me July is
usually the most difficult time. The days are hot and so are the nights as
well as less rain than we need. To combat all this I try to water and then
mulch while the ground is still wet. My compost never really becomes true
compost. Everything goes through the chipper so is in small pieces and
starts the breaking down process. I also like to add grass clippings and
put at least 2 inches around the plants (but not against the stems.) This
preserves the moisture and cools the soil around the roots.
The worms are hungry and will snatch it gradually to digest and
make “castings” lower in the soil as well as creating air tunnels for
the roots. I have never
had raised beds but I can see how they would help because usually part of
the material in the “raise” is generally organic material and this can
absorb more moisture than clay to make it available for the roots.
Do not keep stirring your soil with a hoe or tiller as this exposes
the soil to the air and dries it out. It also brings weed seeds up to
germinate. Put your mulch on top of the weeds to smother them and they
will become part of the mulch. In some countries the people raise the
edges by bringing up the soil in a small area and then planting down
inside the space. The sides protect the plants from wind and they water
only the low areas. Seeds will not wash away as easily and thin mulch
keeps them damp to help them germinate. By July most of
the weeds are not starting. Under the mulch its dark and they aren’t
stimulated to start. On the surface it is too dry for the seeds to
germinate. But there is one, Purslane which never gives up. Portulac
aleracia is also called little hogweed, parsley, duckweed, and wild
Portulaca by the book “Weeds of the
By this time some of our plants like
petunias or impatiens are starting to look tired which means it is time to
cut them back by about half. It
looks a little bare for a week or so but with water they will try to start
over. The purpose of a plant
is to provide a new generation and cutting removes most of the seeds so
they try again. If you want fresh green dill for your fall pickles it is
time to start new seeds as the old crop is turning brown and seeds are
dropping off. I always need a patch of dill for the Swallowtail
butterflies. If you are a
fall gardener the last of the month is time to start those crops as well
as your last row of string beans. Cabbage
and cauliflower transplants are sometimes available in the garden centers.
They will benefit by the cooler nights in August. If we have a late fall
cucumber vines will produce a new crop but if they don’t have enough
water during the hot weather they become bitter. Most of this is in the
stem end so when you notice it just cut that end off. Now is the time
to be looking for material for winter bouquets as well as deadheading
plants that have finished blooming. Many will have time and energy to put
out a new crop of blooms. Cockscomb
(Celosia species) need to be picked at their brightest color stage
for drying. If done right the color will last for several years in a
wreath. Especially the crested ones which many people say looks like a
brain. They come in reds, pinks and yellows. Many get over 9 inches
across. To dry just pick and hang upside down in a dark dry place.
This keeps the stem straight until it dries and preserves the
color. The plumose or plume type can be treated the same way. I like to
plant the seed directly outside as Celosia resents transplanting or its
growth may be stunted with premature blooming. Wheat needs to be cut
before it gets too ripe. Cattails should be picked before the “tails”
open to scatter the seed. These heads were dipped in oil and then used as
a torch at one time. Many of
the weeds are now going to seed as well as some of the grasses. Keep an
eye on all the plants to know when to pick for drying as July is just the
beginning of the season. If plants get too advanced they tend to shatter
as you work with them. Yarrow (Achillea
species) is another plant for wreaths or bouquets. It is easy to grow,
doesn’t need or like a lot of water and comes in many colors that stay
for a long time. Clumps need
to be divided in spring after several years for it to do its best. Copyright 2009 ************************************************************* IT’S
NOT ALL BAD - BY GLADYS JEURINK
Bindweed grows over and under anything.
Its leaves smothers the plants it grows on, and may climb 15 feet
while its huge root system depletes the soil. It may take several years to
get rid of a patch by using Roundup or Kleen-up (Glysophate), or in
combination with Trimec, and of course, a hoe. When it can’t find
something to climb it will cover your soil quite densely and “eat” all
the available food. The
good news is that its roots, stems, and leaves are used to make a laxative
and a remedy for gall bladder problems.
It may not be all bad but it sure is not welcome in most gardens. Copyright July 1, 2006 |