|
*************************************************************
Tips for the new
OR NOVICE gardener
BY GEORGE EDGAR
A garden writer for the Boston
Globe recently said that 80% of people who garden are just starting out
or call themselves beginning level gardeners. A few years ago I asked a
Master Gardener Class to share with me what they would say if one of
these new or novice gardeners asked “How can I improve my landscape?” Or
“How can I make my flowers, shrubs, and trees grow better?” The group
broke into small groups and provided written tips and recommendations.
The #1 tip from
almost every group was “improve
your soil” when starting a new garden or improving an
existing garden, or prior to planting a new lawn or shrub. This can be
done by adding humus, such as compost, peat moss, composted manure,
leaves, or any organic matter. Top soil as sold by garden centers,
hardware stores, drug stores, and/or box stores is probably not any
better than the soil you have now.
Most have very little organic matter, which is what you need to
improve your bed.
When I built my
house and started my vegetable garden, which is now a flower bed, I
double dug the new garden area even though it had very nice, black soil.
For 50 years it has paid off and has been worth the initial effort.
Double digging means laying out your area and then digging down two
spadefuls deep for the width of the bed. I saved the dirt I took out and
used it at the other end of the bed. In the bottom of this dug out area
I put leaves, and/or peat moss,
and/or composted manure and then dug the next row and put the dirt over
the leaves, manure, and peat moss. I did this until I reached the end of
the bed and then put the saved soil over the humus in the last row. If
you are starting a new lawn you can add peat moss, compost, or composted
manure and then till this in. Anything to improve the organic matter in
the soil will be worth the extra effort over time.
Every year in
my vegetable garden I try to dig in compost and also try to put a layer
of compost over the perennial flower beds. I also try to add a layer of
compost to my raspberries, rhubarb, asparagus, and peonies.
Before you start on improving your soil,
it is recommended that you get a soil test so you know the pH level (how
acid or alkaline the soil is). Most good testing sites will also tell
you, if requested, how much organic matter is in the soil, and if you
need to add any nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorous, potash, or
micronutrients. Make sure you let those who are testing your soil know
what you are going to plant in that area so they can give you a specific
recommendation. This may mean a separate test for your flower garden,
your vegetable garden, your lawn, and where you are going to plant a
tree or shrub. To get your soil tested go to the nearest lab that tests
soil. Contact your local County Extension Office for a list of
laboratories in you area.
The second tip
from the Master Gardeners is to make sure you save the tag on any
flower, tree, shrub, or vegetable plants you purchase or seed you plant.
Using the information from books, the internet, and that tag, learn as
much as you can about the new plant so you put it in the correct place
and give it the care it needs. The following questions are important:
1.
Does
this plant like sun, part shade, or full shade?
2.
How
tall and how wide will this plant get? Where you want to plant it, is
there room? Do not put a tree or shrub too close to the house. Give it
room to grow. Give vegetable plants room to grow. Especially vining
crops as some, such as pumpkins produce primarily at the end of the
vine.
3.
How
much fertilizer does this plant need, if any, and how often?
4.
How
much water does this plant need and how often? Will this plant tolerate
wet feet? Will this plant tolerate a location that does not get any
water, except the rain, after the first year or two?
5.
What
kind of soil does this plant prefer? That is, does it like sandy soil,
well drained soil, moist soil, and will it tolerate our hard clay soil?
Also, what pH level does this plant need? For example, Blueberries,
Azalea, Rhododendron, and some other plants prefer and need acidic soil
(pH of 5 to 5.5) to grow well. Our soil in Southeast and South Central
Nebraska is more neutral (pH of 6.8 to 7.2).
6.
Will
this plant reseed itself or produce suckers or off shoots that get in
the way? Will this cause the plant to become invasive in the landscape?
7.
Is
this plant an annual (grows one year and then dies), a biennial (grows
one year, then the second year flowers and produces seeds and then
usually dies), or a perennial (will live for a number of years in the
right location with the right care)? Many catalogs may list a plant as a
perennial, but is not a perennial in our zone. We are in USDA Hardiness
zone #5. Zone #6 starts just south of the
8.
Will
this plant take any special care during our hot, dry, summers, or in our
cold winters? Every plant has special needs and/or preferences. What are
they? Learn what the
answers to these questions are and you will be more successful.
Copyright 2015
|