*************************************************************
RASPBERRIES
BY
If you want to
grow RASPBERRIES next year,
now is the time to decide what kind of
RASPBERRIES you want and prepare your bed. First, layout where you
are going to put them. Then dig or till in lots of compost, peat moss,
or other organic material. You will have only one chance to improve your
soil for sometime to come. The width of your bed depends upon the kind
of RASPBERRIES you are going
to plant, and the length is determined by the size of your garden .
I. EVERBEARING RASPBERRIES:
EVERBEARING RASPBERRIES
produce berries in the fall and again in the spring if pruned correctly.
1. Beds should
be two feet but no more than 3 feet wide. I have short arms so mine are
about 2 to 2 ½ feet wide so I can reach across the bed in order to
harvest and to prune canes.
2. I use cattle
panels to define my beds. My panels are 50 inches high by 144 inches (12
feet) long with 4 inch square openings and can be purchased at most any
farm store. The panels are also available in 8 feet and 16 foot lengths.
Mine are held in place with steel fence posts. The 4 inch openings
allows for access to prune, weed, fertilize, and harvest.
3. If you plan
on having more than one row, make a walkway at least 3 feet wide between
the rows.
4. Birds are a
real nemesis. Cattle panels are really nice as I can drape bird netting
over the cattle panels and then use clothes pins to attach the netting
to the panels. The bird netting I get is 7 feet wide and 14 feet long so
2 pieces just about fit over the cattle panels and my 25 foot long rows.
5. For two
crops from EVERBEARING
RASPBERRIES, remove the old brown canes clear to the ground after
the spring harvest. Leave the nice new green canes that have started to
grow, for fall harvest. After fall harvest or about March 1st in the
spring, deadhead tops and these canes will produce the spring crop and
then can be removed. Be sure to remove any dead canes, weeds, etc.
6. If you want
just one large crop in the fall (no spring harvest) remove all the canes
clear to the ground in the fall after harvest or in early March while
the plant is still dormant. Either method will yield about the same
amount of harvest.
7.
EVERBEARING RASPBERRIES
spread by underground roots (suckers). If they get out of bounds, I root
prune them or pull out the suckers. If you want to share with friends,
dig the suckers in spring as they start to leaf out and transplant as
bare root. With good care they may bear in the fall.
8. I have
Red Heritage, and
Fall
II. BRAMBLING TYPE RASPBERRIES (BRAMBLERS)
can be red, black, or purple and will produce only one crop in the late
spring, on one year old wood.
1. I moved my
black raspberries
(variety unknown) a few
years back as they had anthracnose. (This disease can be controlled with
annual applications of Lime-sulfur in the spring and then again in the
fall.) However, I chose to purchase new disease free plants. My new bed
is two feet wide with a cattle panel down the middle of the bed. These
RASPBERRIES can get very long
canes that droop so must be tied up or woven in the fence. If left alone
they will bend and go clear to the ground and start a new plant. This is
how you propagate your plants if new ones are needed to increase the
size of your bed or to get plants to give to your friends.
The first year
or two RASPBERRIES spend most
of the time developing a good root system. I help them weave in and out
of the fence or tie them to the fence so they don’t fall over. Even
though they are planted on just one side of the fence, I can pick from
both sides.
2. Correct
pruning is important. When the main stems grow to the top of the panel,
I cut them off and train new side shoots to go horizontal. Berrie()s
will form next spring on these side shoots. For best production, have
only two shoots going one direction and two going another. These side
shoots should be about 12 inches to 15 inches apart.
3. In late
February or early March prune side shoots so they are only 18 inches to
24 inches long. To have nice large berries do not let the side shoots
get more than 24 inches long.
4. In late
spring after harvest, remove all old brown canes clear to the ground and
allow new shoots to grow from the original roots and replace the old
canes. As before, trim new shoots when they get to the top of the panel
and encourage side shoots.
5. To propagate
new plants let a cane grow long and then let it root in the ground. When
I think a cane is long enough, I bend it over, dig a hole, plant the tip
about 2 inches deep, and water. I may hold the tip in the soil with a
small metal horseshoe shaped stake, like the kind you use to hold weed
fabric.
TIPS FOR GROWING RASPBERRIES:
I fertilize my
RASPBERRIES with a slow
release
RASPBERRY bushes are usually
available for sale at the garden center only in the spring and they sell
out fast. Put your order in this fall or winter to insure delivery.
Purchase only quality northern grown
RASPBERRIES to insure
hardiness. Copyright 2014 |