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AVOIDING BLOSSOM END ROT IN TOMATOES
AND OTHER GROWING TIPS
BY
GEORGE EDGAR
“BLOSSOM END ROT” is a very
common problem that can be prevented.
The major cause is lack of calcium going to the fruit because of
moisture stress and/or over fertilization. Calcium dissolves in water
and moves through the plant in the vascular system.
Under moisture stress from irregular watering, the calcium goes
to the leaves and stems and thus is deficient in the fruit, causing
blossom end rot. It can occur even in gardens where there is abundant
calcium in the soil. Most gardens in Southeast and South Central
Nebraska have sufficient calcium in the soil and additional
applications, either to the soil or on the leaves (foliar), does not
help stop the problem. Blossom end rot in tomatoes usually occurs on the
first fruits of the season and may be seen on other fruits and
vegetables such as watermelon, squash, peppers, and eggplants. Rapid
plant growth from over fertilization with nitrogen, and moisture stress
from irregular watering are the two major causes why calcium does not go
to the fruit. Blossom end rot is not a disease but what we call an
abiotic problem. That is, it is caused by a physiological disorder.
In summary: 1. To prevent
blossom end rot and other plant diseases---“DO
NOT OVER FERTILIZE!!!” Also, if you have too much nitrogen in
relation to phosphorous, you may have beautiful big tomato plants but
very few tomatoes. Nitrogen makes your foliage grow, and phosphorous is
good for flowering and fruiting. 2. The major cause
of Blossom End Rot is irregular watering, especially during periods of
fruit set, fruit development, and rapid plant growth. Tomatoes need at
least 1 inch of water per week during hot windy weather. One watering
per week of one inch is better than one-half inch of water applied twice
a week according to one source. The important thing is maintaining
uniformly adequate soil moisture throughout the season.
3. The third way to
prevent not only blossom end rot but tomato blight is through the use of
mulch. Mulch can be straw,
dry grass clippings, leaf clippings that have been run through a mower,
compost, or 6 to 8 pages of newspaper. I spread out newspapers, 6 to 8
pages deep between my tomato cages and then put straw, compost or soil
over the top to hold them down. This mulch helps to conserve moisture
and prevent the soil from drying out rapidly. Mulch also helps prevent
the disease pathogens that are in the soil from splashing up onto the
lower leaves. 4. To prevent
diseases in your tomato plants do not water overhead with a sprinkler. I
put a soaker hose under the newspapers or mulch. If you have to overhead
water, do not water after 5. Purchase disease
resistant varieties. When you go to the
·
VFNT: A
plant tag may have one letter, two letters, or all four letters. These
letters are not college degrees but do indicate disease organisms that
hybrid tomatoes have been bred to resist. The V stands for Verticilium
Wilt; the F means the plant is resistant to Fusarium Wilt; the N stands
for nematode resistance; and the T for Tobacco Mosaic resistance.
Remember, they are disease resistant not disease proof.
·
DETERMINATE 6. Don’t plant
tomatoes too early. Soil temperature, not air temperature is the major
consideration. If the soil temperature is too cold, the plants will just
sit, and if it is rainy, may start to rot. You may get early blooms or
even small tomatoes on the early plant, but if the evening temperatures
consistently get below 55 degrees F. the bloom will have a harder time
pollinating and the tomatoes will not change color. 7. Grow your plants
in good cages. I made my own cages from concrete reinforcing fence. The
fencing comes five feet tall and I cut pieces about five to six feet
long and bend them into a circle. These have lasted me for years. My
plants get very tall so I pound pieces of rebar about 5 feet long into
the ground to support the cages so our strong Nebraska winds does not
blow the plants and cages over. 8. Plant deep.
Tomatoes can be planted very deep and the hairs on the stem will
develop roots. I strip all but the top few leaves off my transplants and
then put the plant so they are just above the soil line. 9. The last tip is
to be sure and prune. When my tomatoes are about 3 feet to 4 feet tall, I trim
off the lower 8 inches to 10 inches of stems and leaves. This allows for
good air flow up through the plants and helps to prevent disease. In
addition you may need to go in during the months of
If you get a
good abundant crop, as I usually do, please share with the Food Bank, or
some other food distribution group. Or start a “Harvest Table for
Missions” at your house of worship. Go the second mile and put in one or
two extra plants just for sharing with an elderly neighbor, the Food
Bank, or your Mission Table. Copyright 2012 |