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SEPTEMBER LAWN
BY
According to
the University of Nebraska-Lincoln turf specialists, September is
crucial for fertilizing all cool-season grasses. This includes Turf Type
Tall Fescue, Fine Fescue, and Perennial Rye Grass. Warm season grasses
such as Zoysia and Buffalo grass should have been fertilized in July and
now allowed to go dormant. “Of the
total annual Nitrogen applied
to a cool-season turf, 60 to 75% (or more) of it should be applied
between Labor Day and the last mowing. The September
fertilization is crucial on all turf areas regardless if it is a lawn,
athletic field, or golf course green, tee or fairway. Fertilization in mid-September
encourages the production of new tillers and/or rhizomes and stolons
that will increase turf density. Fertilization in September also
encourages rooting and production of storage products that will help the
plant survive the stresses of winter
and next year's growing season. This is especially true for areas
thinned by this summer's weather. Almost all turf areas should be
fertilized with 1 lb of Nitrogen per 1000 sq ft using a fertilizer with
25-50% of the nitrogen as slow release
(sulfur or polymer-coated urea, urea formaldehyde, or natural
organics).” (Turf 101: September is Crucial for Fertilizing All
Cool-Season Turfs,
The Labor Day
application may be a high nitrogen slow release fertilizer, or a weed
and feed, or it may it contain a pre-emergent herbicide. I don’t care
for weed and feed products as I have found that the herbicide usually
does not stick to the leaves of the weeds. “Weed and Feed” is convenient
but not as effective as a liquid herbicide with a sticker-spreader
added. A liquid herbicide with “triclopyr” in it is recommended for use
on ground ivy, henbit, wild violets, dandelions, and
clover. September 15 to October 1 is a good time to put on the
first application. Repeat in 10 days and a third application 10 days
later for good control.
A fertilizer
with pre-emergent in it put on now, will help control dandelions (a
perennial), henbit, and winter annual weeds that germinate in September.
Henbit goes to seed in the spring and the seeds sit all summer and then
germinate in September along with dandelion seeds from their spring
flowers. After they germinate in the fall, they sit and grow in the lawn
under the snow and then when the snow melts in the spring they bloom and
distribute seeds before we can control them. It is easier to prevent
than treat. If you bought a fertilizer program in the spring, take the
fall bag back and see if you can return it and get one with
pre-emergent, or a weed and feed.
The second most
important time to fertilize your cool-season grass is about 6 weeks
later or around the middle of October. In my “Lawn Care by Holidays” I
used to say put a “Winter Fertilizer” on between Halloween and
Thanksgiving. However recent research has shown that between the middle
of October and Halloween is better. After the ground has frozen the
grass does not use the fertilizer and it may just sit on top of the
frozen ground and with a good rain, washes into the street and then to
our river systems. This winter fertilizer should be higher in potash
(the last number) than a regular fertilizer application and have of slow
release nitrogen.
The other fall
task is to rake leaves. I try to find the easiest way to do something.
Taking care of leaves in the fall is no exception. I use my mower and
mulch them into my lawn or I put the bag on and pick them up for the
compost pile. My self-propelled mower is much easier than a rake. My
wife and I do rake the leaves from the lilac hedge and other shrubs, and
my wife rakes the leaves from her flower garden. These we gather up for
the compost pile, or put the bag on the mower and run over them with the
mower before putting them in the compost pile. Ground up leaves compost
2 to 3 times faster, and if you used as mulch around plants, do not mat
down.
Chopping up the
leaves with your mower and putting them back into your lawn is
beneficial, according to a study done by
Grass clippings
are mostly water and have a nitrogen to carbon of 20. If you mulch your
grass back into the grass you will end the season with the equivalent of
one application of fertilizer. And mulching grass in the summer and
leaves in the fall does not increase thatch. Remember, thatch in you
lawn is caused by over fertilization, over watering, and mowing your
grass too short. The best way to prevent thatch and have a healthy lawn
is to core aerate at least once per year, do not over fertilize,
irrigate only when necessary, and mow your grass 2 1/2” to 3 1/2” high
year around. Aerate in the fall between August 15 and September 15, or
in the spring between April 15 and May 15.
You save by
mulching your grass clippings and your leaves. First, you save your back
by not picking up your clippings and your leaves. Second, you save money
because you don’t have to purchase paper bags to put them in. Third, you
don’t have to pay someone to haul them to the landfill. And fourth, you
save on taxes and the need for a larger landfill filled with lawn
clippings and leaves. Copyright 2011 |